Chalkida

Chalkida is a city defined by a freak of nature. It sits on the Euripus, the narrow strait that separates the island of Euboea from the mainland, and here the sea behaves impossibly: every few hours, the current of the strait reverses direction, flowing one way and then the other with such force that the water churns and boils. The ancients observed it; Aristotle is said to have despaired of explaining it. From the white swing bridge over the Euripus, the water races beneath — one moment pouring north, the next south — genuinely hypnotic. The city itself is a joy: a compact, ancient town with a handsome seafront, a beautiful old quarter beneath the walls of the Karababa castle, and some of the best seafood in Greece in its waterfront tavernas. It is also the gateway to the island of Euboea — one of Greece's largest and least-explored islands, with mountains, hot springs, and villages that time seems to have passed by. Chalkida has the feel of a place that knows a secret: it is an hour from Athens, yet it belongs to a slower, saltier world.

Chalkida has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and it was one of the most important cities of ancient Greece. In the 8th and 7th centuries BC, it was a great maritime power, founding colonies across the Mediterranean — from Cyme in Italy to settlements in Sicily and Thrace — and its name became a byword for Greek enterprise. The city later came under the rule of Athens, then of the Macedonians, and in 146 BC passed to the Romans. In the Byzantine era it was a fortress city, guarding the strait that linked the Aegean to central Greece. The great Karababa castle, on the hill across the strait, was built by the Turks in the 17th century and captures the city's long history as a fortified gateway. Chalkida also has a deep Jewish history: a Jewish community lived here for centuries, and the town's old Jewish quarter is one of the oldest in Greece. In the modern era, Chalkida became the capital of Euboea, and it was later connected to the mainland by the swing bridge that is still the city's emblem. Today it is a lively, growing city, famous for its seafood, its strange tides, and as the starting point for exploring the great island of Euboea.

Chalkida's own swimming is along the coast of the gulf, and the island of Euboea beyond offers some of the finest beaches of central Greece. The town's beaches are small and pleasant, but the real treasures are nearby: the long golden sands of the Euboean coast to the north — at Artaki and beyond toward the villages of the island's eastern shore — and the hot-spring beaches where you can bathe in warm mineral water. The coast of Euboea south of Chalkida, toward Eretria, has beautiful quiet coves, and the island's eastern coast, facing the Aegean, is famous for its long wild beaches and clear water.

Chalkida is one of Greece's great seafood cities. The waterfront of the old quarter is lined with tavernas serving the day's catch — the local specialities include the fried whitebait, the grilled octopus, and the famous shrimp of the gulf, but the star is the local fish, simply grilled with olive oil and lemon. The city is also known for its coffee culture and its kafeneia. The island of Euboea adds its own produce: the honey of the mountains, the olive oil, and the cheeses. Do not miss a plate of the local seafood and a glass of ouzo as the sun sets over the strait — it is the Chalkida way.

Spring and autumn are the finest seasons in Chalkida — mild, golden, and quiet, with the seafood at its best. Summer is lively and hot, with the seafront full of life and the Euboean beaches busy; the evenings, with the current running and the lights on the water, are delightful. Winter is quiet and cool, and the city turns inward, but the strange magic of the Euripus works in every season.

Chalkida is about an hour from Athens by car or train, which makes it an easy day trip. It stands on the narrow Euripus channel and serves as a base for the rest of Euboea.

The Euripus is the whole point — find a table at a waterfront café, or stand on the bridge, and watch the current reverse; it happens roughly every six hours, so check locally for the timing. Allow a morning for the old quarter and the Karababa castle. Do not miss the fish — this is some of the best seafood in Greece. Chalkida is an easy day trip from Athens (an hour by car or train), and a perfect base for exploring Euboea — the island's beaches, villages, and hot springs are well worth a few days.