Halki

Halki is the smallest of the Dodecanese's twelve main islands, and its scale is its magic. The ferry from Rhodes takes about an hour, and as you round the headland you see it all: the one town of Nimborio, a crescent of neoclassical houses in faded pinks and ochres around a deep blue harbour, and above it, on its hill, the ruins of Chorio, the old capital abandoned in the 20th century. An afternoon climb through the roofless houses of Chorio and past the ruined castle of the Knights ends on the ramparts, with the sea open on both sides. In the harbour below, the fishing boats rest among a handful of yachts, and the only sounds are the wind and the church bells. Pontamos, a short walk from the village, is good for a swim, and grilled fish is served at a table by the water as the sun sets behind the island. Halki is the kind of place where a day is a long, slow, perfect thing — and where the island's greatest luxury is the silence.

Halki has been inhabited since antiquity, when it was known as Chalke and was a member of the Dorian Hexapolis. In the Middle Ages it passed under the rule of the Knights of Saint John, who built the castle whose ruins crown the hill above the old capital, and then under the Ottomans. In the 19th century Halki enjoyed a modest prosperity based on sponge fishing and trade, and its harbour town of Nimborio grew into a pretty, dignified settlement. The 20th century brought decline and emigration — by 1940 the island's population had fallen to a few hundred, and the old capital of Chorio was gradually abandoned as the people moved down to the harbour. Halki was united with Greece in 1948. Today the island is a place of remarkable peace and beauty, known for its one welcoming town, its ruined capital on the hill, and its warm hospitality. The island also holds a special place in Greek memory as the home of a beloved song and of the story of the 'silver-haired' grandmother who refused to leave Chorio — a story that has made Halki a symbol of loyalty and love in Greek culture.

Halki is too small for long beaches, but its coves are perfect. Pontamos, just west of the village, is the island's principal beach: a strip of sand and pebbles with tamarisk shade, clear shallow water, and a small cantina in summer. Nimborio has a small beach in the bay and a rocky foreshore for snorkelling. The coves of Kania and Trachia, on the north and south coasts, are wild and empty, reached by paths or by boat. And the water around Halki is among the clearest in the Dodecanese — deep blue, calm, and full of fish. Bring water shoes and a mask, and expect to have most of the coast to yourself.

Halki's table is small but honest. The tavernas of Nimborio serve the daily catch — grilled fish, octopus, and the tiny shrimps of the region — with the island's own olive oil and a cold carafe of white wine. The island has no big culinary tradition, but what it does it does well: simple, fresh, seasonal food eaten by the water as the sun sets. The local cheese, the thyme honey, and the pastries of the harbour's bakery complete the picture. And the hospitality of Halki is its true cuisine — you will be welcomed like family, fed generously, and sent on your way with a jar of honey and a smile.

May, June, and September are the ideal months on Halki: warm, calm, and gloriously quiet, with the sea perfect for swimming. July and August are busier — Halki is a popular day trip from Rhodes — but the evenings, when the day-trippers have gone, are wonderfully peaceful. Spring brings flowers to the hills, and autumn lingers warm into October. Halki is at its most magical in the early morning and at dusk, when the pastel houses glow in the low light and the only company is the sea.

Halki is reached by ferry from Rhodes — about an hour, with several sailings a week in summer — and by seasonal boats from the other islands; there is no airport. The island is tiny enough to walk everywhere, and a car is not needed.

Walk up to Chorio in the late afternoon for the light and the views, and take water for the climb. Swim at Pontamos, hire a boat or join a trip to see the coves, and plan to stay at least one night to experience the island's extraordinary quiet. The tavernas may be simple and the shops few, but the hospitality of Halki is a gift — accept it, and the island will stay with you for a long time.