Heraklion Region

Knossos is the obvious starting point and it deserves every bit of its fame, but it is also the most crowded thing in a region of real variety. Come at opening time and the palace is briefly almost empty: the Throne Room with its griffin frescoes, the Grand Staircase built around its light wells, and the Queen's Megaron with the dolphin painting are all better for it.

The landscape beyond is the better discovery. South of the city lies the valley of Archanes, a wine region producing wine since the Minoan period, with vineyards planted on the slopes of Mount Youktas — the mountain where the Minoans believed Zeus was buried. The local white is Vidiano, a grape almost unknown outside the island, and it is grown on soils that look as though they came from somewhere else entirely: floral, mineral, with a finish that goes on for minutes.

On the south coast, Matala is the famous beach where hippies lived in the caves in the 1960s, and where 3,000 years earlier the Minoans buried their dead in those same caves. The Libyan Sea is deep and clear, and the drive back through the olive groves of the Mesara plain explains why this region has been inhabited for 6,000 years.

The Heraklion Region is the cradle of the Minoan civilisation, the first advanced civilisation in Europe. The palace of Knossos, 5 km south of Heraklion city, was the political and ceremonial centre of the Minoan world from approximately 2700 to 1450 BC. The palace was a sprawling complex of 1,300 rooms arranged around a central courtyard, with advanced drainage systems, light wells, and multi-storey buildings connected by grand staircases. The site was excavated and partially reconstructed by British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans in the early 20th century, using concrete and colourful frescoes to recreate what he believed the Minoan world looked like — the reconstructions are controversial but give visitors a unique sense of the scale and sophistication of the palace. The Minoan civilisation collapsed around 1450 BC, likely due to a combination of the Santorini eruption, earthquakes, and Mycenaean invasions. The region was later inhabited by Mycenaeans, Dorians, and Romans. During the Byzantine period, the area declined in importance as the city of Heraklion grew. The Venetian and Ottoman periods left their mark on the villages and countryside — the Venetian fortifications at the harbour of Heraklion, the Ottoman mosques in the villages of the interior, and the agricultural terraces that still shape the landscape. During World War II, the region was the site of fierce fighting during the Battle of Crete, and the German occupation brought retaliation against the civilian population — the village of Viannos was burned and its inhabitants massacred in 1943. Today, the Heraklion Region is the economic and cultural heart of Crete, home to the island's largest airport, its main port, and its most famous archaeological sites.

The name is recorded by Stephanus of Byzantium in the sixth century AD. His Ethnica is not a book of stories but a dictionary of Greek place-names, and for this one it says: "Some say from the Koure, by contraction Kouretē and Crete". "Others from Krete, son of Zeus and the nymph Idaia, others from Crete one of the Hesperides, others from a certain earth-born Krete". (Ethnica, s.v. Κρήτη).

That is the whole of what an ancient source has to say about how the place got its name. It is a shorter answer than the guidebooks give, and it is the only one with a source behind it.

The Heraklion Region has a coastline that varies from long sandy strips to dramatic south-coast coves. The north coast, from the city eastward toward Malia, offers organised beaches with all amenities. The best of these is Ammoudara, a 8-km stretch of golden sand just west of the city, with tamarisk trees, sunbeds, and a lively beach bar scene at the western end (the "Ammoudara Strip"). Further east, the beaches of Karteros, Gournes, and Kokkini Hani are quieter, with sandy coves and a few family-run tavernas. For something completely different, drive to the south coast, about 90 minutes from the city. Matala is the most famous south-coast beach — a wide crescent of golden sand with the iconic caves in the cliff face. The beach is well organised with sunbeds and a row of tavernas, but arrive early (before 10 am) to avoid the crowds. Just east of Matala, Kommos Beach is a long, wild stretch of sand backed by dunes and a hill with a Minoan harbour town — it is one of the least developed beautiful beaches in Crete, with no sunbeds and only a couple of seasonal tavernas. Agia Galini, further west, is a charming fishing village with a small pebble beach and a harbourfront lined with tavernas. For a secluded swim, hike down to the beach at Lentas, a south-coast cove with a small taverna and the remains of a Roman settlement.

The food of the Heraklion Region is the heart of the Cretan diet — simple, seasonal, and built on extraordinary ingredients. The region is the largest olive-growing area in Crete, and the olive oil here is exceptional. The local extra virgin olive oil, made from the Koroneiki variety, is fruity, peppery, and green, and it is the foundation of every meal. The vineyards around Archanes, Peza, and the Dafnes region produce wines that have been made for 4,000 years — the PDO wines of Peza (including the red Kotsifali and Mandilari, and the white Vilana) are among the most distinctive in Greece. The signature dish of the region is gamopilafo — the wedding pilaf of central Crete, a creamy rice dish slow-cooked in lamb broth with lemon and pepper. The meat culture in Heraklion is strong: try the slow-braised goat with potatoes (apaki kato gaidoura), the grilled lamb chops from the mountain villages, and the traditional staka — a creamy butter-and-cheese spread made from sheep or goat milk, served with bread and a squeeze of lemon. The cheese of the region is dominated by graviera Kritis (the PDO hard cheese from the mountain villages) and the soft, tangy mizithra. For a sweet finish, try lychnarakia — small fried dough balls soaked in honey and cinnamon — or the traditional kserotigana, thin fried pastries with honey and sesame. The region is also famous for its wild greens (horta), which are boiled and served with olive oil and lemon as a side dish — they are the secret to the Cretan diet's reputation for longevity.

Spring (April to June) is the best time to visit the Heraklion Region. The weather is warm (22–28 °C), the wildflowers cover the hillsides, and the archaeological sites are not yet crowded. Summer (July to August) is hot (30–36 °C) — the Minoan palaces have almost no shade, so visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Autumn (September to October) is ideal for wine lovers: the grape harvest takes place in September, and the wineries of Archanes and Peza welcome visitors. Winter (November to February) is mild (12–18 °C) and quiet — many beach tavernas close, but the mountain villages are beautiful and the archaeological museums remain open.

The region is entered through Heraklion, which holds both of Crete's main gateways: Heraklion airport 'Nikos Kazantzakis', about 5 km from the centre, and the port, one of Greece's ten nationally significant ports, 1.2 km from the centre and 1.5 km from the airport, with cruise berths at the Pier IV-V terminal. The port authority notes both are linked by road directly to the island's northern highway, the A90. From the city the Northern Road Axis runs east and west, motorway-standard where it bypasses Heraklion and dual carriageway beyond, with provincial roads branching inland to the sites and the Mesara plain.

Knossos opens at 8 am — arrive at opening time to experience the palace without the cruise ship crowds (they start arriving around 10 am). The site is partially shaded but wears a hat and sunscreen. The ticket includes access to the Heraklion Archaeological Museum (valid for the same day or the next day) — visit the museum first to understand the artefacts, then walk the site. The south coast beaches (Matala, Kommos) are accessible by car via the E75 highway and then the provincial road; the drive takes about 90 minutes from the city. The wineries of Archanes and Peza are open for tastings; many require a reservation. The Minoan palace of Phaistos is less crowded than Knossos and, arguably more atmospheric — the setting on a hill overlooking the Mesara plain is breathtaking. The village of Archanes has several excellent tavernas serving traditional Cretan food — try Taverna Vouves or the Archanes Wine Restaurant. The Cretaquarium is a great option for a rainy day or for families with children. For the best sunset view of the Heraklion coastline, drive to the hilltop village of Krousonas and watch the light fade over the sea. And one more thing: the extra virgin olive oil from the Peza region is considered some of the best in Greece — buy a bottle from a local producer and taste the difference.