Hydra

Hydra is reached by hydrofoil from Piraeus, and the first sight of the harbour — a perfect crescent of 18th-century mansions rising up the hillside, their ochre, terracotta, and white facades reflected in the still water — eclipses every other Greek island. There are no cars on Hydra. The only sounds are the bells of the donkeys, the lapping of the water against the stone quay, and the footsteps of visitors and locals walking the cobbled streets. Guests settle into guesthouses in the old quarter of Kaminia, a ten-minute walk from the harbour along a coastal path lined with oleander and bougainvillea. The path follows the shoreline past small pebble beaches where fishermen pull their caiques onto the shore, and the water is so clear that the purple sea urchins show clustered on the rocks below. The first evening invites a walk up to the Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin (Profitis Ilias), which sits on the hill above the town, and a watch as the sunset turns the harbour from gold to rose to violet. Below, the lights of the cafes and restaurants along the harbour begin to flicker on, and the sound of a guitar drifts up from a taverna on the waterfront. Hydra does not party. It does not advertise. It does not need to. It simply exists, in its perfect, preserved 18th-century form, and that is more than enough.

Hydra has been inhabited since the Neolithic period, but its golden age was the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when it became one of the most important maritime powers in the Mediterranean. The island's natural deep-water harbour and its strategic position on the sea routes between Constantinople, the Levant, and Western Europe made it a hub of shipping and trade. The Hydriot fleet grew to over 150 merchant ships, crewed by the island's skilled sailors, who traded as far as Russia, France, and the Americas. The wealth generated by this maritime trade transformed Hydra into one of the richest communities in Greece. The island's merchant families built grand mansions (arhontika) along the harbour, designed by Italian and French architects, their facades a blend of Venetian, Neoclassical, and local Hydriot styles. The prosperity of Hydra reached its peak during the Napoleonic Wars, when Hydriot ships, sailing under the Russian flag, broke through the British blockade of France and brought immense wealth to the island. This wealth was later poured into the Greek War of Independence (1821–1830). Hydra contributed more ships, money, and naval commanders to the Greek cause than any other island or region in Greece. The Hydriot fleet, led by admirals like Andreas Miaoulis, Antonios Kriezis, and Georgios Sachtouris, formed the backbone of the Greek navy and played a decisive role in the war. The island's contribution was so significant that it was said "without Hydra, there would have been no Greek Revolution." After independence, the rise of steam-powered shipping shifted the centre of Greek maritime commerce to Piraeus and the ports of the newly independent state, and Hydra's importance declined. The island's population shrank, and its mansions were abandoned or fell into disrepair. In the 20th century, Hydra was rediscovered by artists, writers, and filmmakers. In 1956, the film "Boy on a Dolphin" starring Sophia Loren was filmed on the island, putting Hydra on the international tourist map. In the 1960s and 1970s, the island became a haven for artists and bohemians, including the Canadian singer-songwriter Leonard Cohen, who lived on Hydra for much of the 1960s and wrote many of his early songs there. In 1961, the Greek government declared Hydra a preserved settlement, banning motor vehicles and protecting the island's unique architectural heritage. Today, Hydra is one of the most popular day-trip destinations from Athens, but it retains an atmosphere of timeless elegance that sets it apart from every other Greek island.

Hydra is not a beach destination in the way that Mykonos or Crete are — the island's coastline is rocky and indented, with pebble coves rather than long sandy stretches. But for a day of swimming in crystal-clear water with stunning views, Hydra has more than enough to offer. The best beach is Vlychos, a 20-minute walk west of Hydra Town along the coastal path. The beach is a mix of sand and pebbles, with clear turquoise water and a row of tamarisk trees providing natural shade. There is a excellent taverna (Vlychos Beach Taverna) serving grilled octopus, fresh fish, and cold beer. Further west along the same path, you reach Kamini Beach, a small pebble cove in the fishing village of Kaminia, with good swimming and a couple of tavernas overlooking the water. On the other side of Hydra Town, eastward along the coastal path, lies Mandraki Beach, a small, secluded pebble cove with crystal-clear water and complete peace and quiet — the best option for those who want to escape the handful of visitors who make it to Vlychos. For those who want to explore further, water taxis can take you to more remote beaches on the south and west coasts of the island, including Bisti Beach (a long pebble beach with a taverna, accessible only by boat) and Agios Nikolaos Beach (a small cove with a chapel on the cliff above). The water around Hydra is some of the clearest in the Saronic Gulf, and the snorkelling is excellent, with sea urchins, colourful fish, and the occasional octopus hiding under the rocks.

Hydra's cuisine is rooted in the traditions of the Saronic Gulf and the Peloponnese, with an emphasis on fresh seafood, locally produced olive oil, and the wild herbs that grow on the island's rocky hillsides. The signature dish of Hydra is the Hydriot lamb (arni fournou tis Idras) — lamb slow-cooked in a clay pot with potatoes, garlic, oregano, and a generous amount of local olive oil, until the meat falls off the bone and the potatoes are golden and crispy. Another island classic is the Hydriot fish soup (kakavia tis Idras) — a rich, saffron-coloured broth made with the catch of the day, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, and a splash of ouzo or tsipouro, served with grilled bread and a flourish of fresh dill. The waters around Hydra are rich with fish: barbouni (red mullet), tsipoura (sea bream), and the local gavros (anchovies) are caught daily by the island's small fishing fleet and served simply grilled with olive oil and lemon. The grilled octopus of Hydra is excellent, served with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of oregano. The island's rocky terrain does not support large-scale agriculture, but the few olive groves that survive produce excellent oil, and the hillsides are covered in wild oregano, thyme, and sage that appear in every dish. The local cheese is not produced on Hydra itself but comes from the neighbouring Peloponnese: feta from the Argolid, and the soft, creamy mizithra that is used in pies and pastries. For a proper Hydriot meal, start with a plate of fava (yellow split pea puree with capers and olive oil) and a selection of fresh seafood meze (grilled octopus, marinated anchovies, and fried calamari), follow with a slow-cooked Hydriot lamb or a plate of grilled barbouni, and finish with a piece of melopita (honey pie) and a glass of tsipouro. The island's cafes and patisseries also serve excellent galaktoboureko (semolina custard pie in phyllo) and kataifi (shredded phyllo with nuts and honey).

Hydra is at its best in spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October), when the weather is warm (22–28 °C), the crowds of day-trippers from Athens have not yet arrived or have thinned out, and the light has that golden, painterly quality that has attracted artists to the island for a century. Summer (July to August) is hot (30–35 °C) and busy — the hydrofoils from Piraeus arrive every hour, the harbourfront cafes are packed, and the narrow streets of Hydra Town can feel claustrophobic. Winter (November to February) is mild (10–16 °C) and wonderfully quiet — many restaurants and shops close, but the island has a raw, authentic beauty in the winter light, and the Hydriot mansions look even more dramatic against a grey sky.

Hydra has no airport and no cars, so a visit has to be planned around the sea and on foot — nothing can be driven or ridden on the island once there. The main route is a high-speed catamaran from Piraeus, roughly 1 hour 30 minutes on a Flying Dolphin or 1 hour 45 minutes on a Flying Cat, with several departures a day through the summer. Within the Saronic, Ermioni on the Peloponnese is 20 to 25 minutes away on the same boats, and drivers can leave the car at Metochi opposite the island and cross on a scheduled local boat in about twelve minutes or by water taxi.

There are no cars, motorcycles, or bicycles on Hydra — the only transport is on foot, by donkey, or by water taxi. Wear comfortable walking shoes: the streets are cobbled and steep, and the path to Vlychos Beach is uneven in places. The water taxis (the "Hydra Sea Buses") are a fun and practical way to reach the remote beaches — they operate from the harbour and charge €5–15 per person depending on the distance. The best time to photograph the harbour is in the early morning (7–9 am), when the light comes from the east and illuminates the mansions, and the water is still and mirror-like. The sunset from the Monastery of Profitis Ilias is the best on the island — the walk up takes about 30 minutes from the harbour, and the view of the sun setting behind the Peloponnese mountains is unforgettable. The Historical Archives Museum is worth a visit even if you are not usually a museum person — the building itself (the Kountouriotis mansion) is a masterpiece of Hydriot architecture, and the collection of ship models and figureheads is fascinating. The Leonard Cohen Bench, on the path to Vlychos Beach, is usually decorated with flowers, notes, and pebbles left by fans — bring a small offering if you are a Cohen fan. The best restaurant on Hydra is To Kaminaki, in the Kaminia district, a family-run taverna that has been serving traditional Hydriot food for three generations — the lamb fournou and the grilled octopus are the best on the island. The day-trippers from Athens arrive on the hydrofoils between 10 am and 11 am and leave between 4 pm and 5 pm — plan your visit to the harbour and the museums around these times to avoid the crowds. The ferry from Piraeus to Hydra takes about 1.5 hours by hydrofoil (Flying Cat) or 3.5 hours by conventional ferry. And one more thing: Hydra is the island where Leonard Cohen wrote "Bird on the Wire" — sit on the harbour in the evening with a glass of ouzo, and you will understand why.