Kefalonia

Kefalonia can be crossed in a single day, and the moment of cresting the mountain pass above Myrtos is not quickly forgotten. The road bends, and suddenly the whole bay is below: a sickle of white stones and sand cupped between two cliffs, the water graded from pale aquamarine at the shore to a blue so deep it looks black. The viewpoint invites a long stay, longer than expected. Later that day there is the darkness of Melissani Cave to walk into, and a lake of startling blue to row across — sunlight falls through a hole in the roof of the cave and turns the water the colour of lapis, which explains at once why the ancients thought it sacred to the nymph Melissanthi. The next morning, Fiskardo, the only village on the island to survive the great earthquake of 1953, has a harbour of pastel houses and wooden boats that look untouched by the twentieth century; the fried squid by the water, the yachts swinging on their anchors and the empty lanes as the light goes violet are among its ordinary pleasures. Kefalonia is an island that makes visitors slow down. The roads wind over mountains; the beaches take work to reach; the afternoon heat empties the streets. But every hard-earned view, every cold swim, every glass of Robola on a vine-shaded terrace stays vivid long after the effort it took to earn it.

Kefalonia has been inhabited since the Neolithic, and its four ancient city-states — Sami, Pale, Krania, and Pronnoi — were powerful enough to side with Athens against Corinth and to matter to Rome. Homer called the island Kephallenia, the kingdom of Odysseus himself, and the megalithic remains at Mycenaean sites around the island lend the legend some weight. In the Middle Ages the island passed through Byzantine, Frankish, and Venetian hands, and the Venetians ruled for nearly three centuries, building castles and terracing the hillsides for vineyards. The defining catastrophe came on 12 August 1953, when a series of earthquakes flattened almost every town on the island and killed over 450 people. Only Fiskardo, in the far north, survived structurally intact. The island rebuilt in a stern, earthquake-proof modernist style, which is why much of Kefalonia today looks unlike the rest of Greece — and why Fiskardo, with its original Venetian-era houses, has become the most loved corner of the island. Louis de Bernieres wrote his novel Captain Corelli's Mandolin about the Italian occupation and the 1953 earthquake, and the film made the island famous around the world. Today Kefalonia is known for its dramatic coast, its Robola wine from the slopes of Mount Ainos, its endemic Kefalonian fir, and its loggerhead turtles, which nest on the beaches of the south and west every summer.

Kefalonia has more than a hundred beaches, and the best of them are spectacular. Myrtos, on the northwest coast, is the icon — a huge arc of white stones and sand between steep cliffs, its water a blue that photographers cannot reproduce. Further south, Petani is a smaller, wilder version with a fine cliff-top taverna. Antisamos, near Sami, is a gorgeous pebble cove framed by forested hills, popular with swimmers and snorkellers. On the west coast, Makris Gialos and Platis Gialos, near Argostoli, are the island's main sandy beaches, with sunbeds, water sports, and beach bars. Xi, at the southern tip, has distinctive red sand and shallow water, perfect for families. The south coast offers Lourdas and Skala, long sandy stretches with tavernas and organised facilities. And the east coast hides quieter coves — Poros, Agia Efimia, and the many small pebble beaches along the road to Fiskardo, where the water is calm and the crowds are thin. Whatever you choose, go early or late: the sun is fierce, and the island's best beaches earn their fame.

Kefalonia produces some of the best food in the Ionian. The island's signature dish is kreatopita, a rich meat pie of pork, beef, onion, and rice wrapped in flaky pastry — a recipe every grandmother guards jealously. From the sea come grilled octopus, grouper, and the small fried fish called marides. Pastitsada and sofrito, the veal and rooster dishes of the Ionian kitchen, appear on taverna menus alongside local specialities like tsigaridia, wild greens with onion and tomato. The pride of the island is Robola, a crisp, mineral white wine grown on the terraced slopes of Mount Ainos — taste it with grilled fish and you will understand why it has been prized for centuries. Kefalonia also makes an excellent honey, a firm local cheese, and mandoles, toasted almonds coated in crisp caramel, a beloved souvenir. For a memorable meal, order a plate of kreatopita, a shared grilled fish, and a carafe of Robola, then finish with mandoles and a spoonful of honey.

Late spring (May to June) and early autumn (September to October) are the best times to visit Kefalonia. The weather is warm, the sea is swimmable, the island is green, and the beaches are calm. July and August are hot and busy — the famous beaches fill up and the coastal roads are slow — but the mountains offer cooler escapes, and the evenings by the harbour are lovely. Kefalonia is greener and less scorched than the Cyclades, so even in high summer the interior is pleasant. Winter is quiet and often rainy, but the island has a loyal local life, and the empty roads and golden light are a reward for the intrepid.

Kefalonia Airport "Anna Pollatou" (EFL), a Fraport Greece airport in the island's south-west, lies about 8 km from Argostoli and takes scheduled flights from Athens plus seasonal European charters. The main ferry is Levante Ferries from Kyllini on the Peloponnese, a road journey of a little over three hours from Athens across the Rio–Antirrio bridge, landing at Poros on the south-east coast after about an hour and a half. Levante Ferries also sails from Patras to Sami, and in summer Ioniansea Ferries runs a direct crossing of roughly one hour and three quarters from Agios Nikolaos on Zakynthos to Pessada.

Rent a car: Kefalonia is the largest Ionian island, and the best beaches and villages are spread out along winding mountain roads. Distances are longer than they look — budget time accordingly and drive carefully. Fiskardo is the most atmospheric base, but book early; Argostoli and Sami are more practical and cheaper. Visit Myrtos at 8 am or after 6 pm to have it nearly to yourself, and bring water and proper shoes for the walk down. Melissani and Drogarati get crowded with tour groups between 10 am and 2 pm — go early or late. The turtles of Koutavos Lagoon surface in the late afternoon; look for them near the De Bosset bridge. Try Robola at a winery in Omala Valley, and don't miss the sunset from the viewpoint above Myrtos or the harbour at Fiskardo. And when a taverna owner offers you mandoles or a shot of local wine, accept — it is the Kefalonian way.