Nafpaktos

Nafpaktos is the kind of town that is discovered by accident and never willingly left. The harbour is a perfect circle of stone, ringed by medieval ramparts and watched over by a small Venetian castle that sits on its own mole at the mouth. Fishing boats and yachts bob at anchor; tavernas crowd the quay; and behind the waterfront the old town climbs the hill in steep, narrow streets toward the great castle walls that zigzag up the mountainside. At a harbourfront table one evening, with the boats coming in and the lights coming on across the Gulf of Corinth, the town shows what the Mediterranean should feel like. The town is best known for one of the great naval battles of history — the Battle of Lepanto in 1571, when the combined Christian fleet defeated the Ottomans here, a victory that shaped the history of Europe. But today it is simply one of Greece's most charming small towns, quiet in winter, golden in summer, with a castle to climb, a sea to swim in, and a pace of life in which hurry is forgotten.

Nafpaktos (the ancient Naupactus, from the Greek for 'shipyard') has been a harbour for over two and a half thousand years. In antiquity it was a shipyard of the Corinthians and later of the Athenians, and it played a part in the Peloponnesian War. Its modern identity was forged by its fortifications: the Franks, Venetians, and Ottomans all built on the site, and the castle that survives today is a Venetian masterpiece, its walls climbing the hill in a spectacular series of ramparts and towers. In 1571, the harbour was the scene of the Battle of Lepanto, in which the Holy League — a fleet of galleys under Don John of Austria, including the ships of Venice, Spain, and the Papal States — destroyed the Ottoman fleet. It was one of the largest naval battles in history and the last great battle fought between fleets of galleys; the poet Cervantes lost the use of his left hand there. Nafpaktos was rebuilt and refortified by the Venetians in the 17th century, and the town settled into the quiet life of a provincial Greek port. The great earthquake of 1965 damaged the castle, but the walls were restored, and today the town is a protected historic site and one of the loveliest places on the Corinthian coast.

The name is recorded by Stephanus of Byzantium in the sixth century AD. His Ethnica is not a book of stories but a dictionary of Greek place-names, and for this one it says: "The name comes from the shipbuilding of the Heraclids". (Ethnica, s.v. Ναύπακτος).

That is the whole of what an ancient source has to say about how the place got its name. It is a shorter answer than the guidebooks give, and it is the only one with a source behind it.

Nafpaktos offers the best of both worlds: a pretty town beach right at the harbour and longer, more relaxed strands nearby. The small beach at Psani, beneath the castle walls, is a short walk from the centre — pebbles and shallow water, with the fortifications overhead. Gribovo, a sandy stretch just east of town, is the place for a proper swim with sunbeds and a beach bar. Beyond the town, the coast of the Gulf of Corinth is dotted with coves and inlets — the beaches toward Antirrio and toward Ano Chora are quiet and beautiful, with clear water and tamarisk shade.

Nafpaktos sits between the sea and the mountains of Sterea Ellada, and its food is a mix of coast and country. The harbour tavernas serve the day's catch — grilled fish, octopus, and the famous Greek salads — while the old town's kafeneia offer the region's slow-cooked dishes: lamb kleftiko, goat in lemon and oregano, and the pies of the mountains. The local speciality is the small, sweet shrimp of the gulf, and the wine of the nearby hills is fresh and drinkable. The coastline toward Patra grows some of Greece's best currants and the local olive oil is excellent. Finish a meal with a spoon sweet of quince or bergamot and a Greek coffee.

Spring and autumn are the loveliest seasons in Nafpaktos — mild, golden, and uncrowded, with the castle walls at their most beautiful in the low light. Summer is warm and lively, with the harbour full of life and the beaches busy but friendly; the evenings, with the boats coming in and the sea still warm, are the reason people come. Winter is very quiet — the town closes down to its own rhythm, and the castle above the grey gulf is dramatic.

Nafpaktos has no rail or scheduled ferry service and is reached by road. From Athens the drive runs about 218 km via Corinth and the Rio–Antirrio Bridge, or alternatively via Livadia and Itea (270 km). Intercity KTEL buses connect the town with Athens, Patras and Messolongi, with the daily Athens service taking about three and a half hours. The small inner harbour takes sailing and small cruise vessels in summer rather than cruise-liner calls.

The climb to the castle is essential — it passes through seven gates and rewards you with the best view in the region; allow about an hour each way. For the sunset, sit at the harbour's edge with the Venetian castle in front of you. The town is small, so park outside the centre and walk in. The seafood at the quay is excellent, but the tavernas one street back are cheaper and equally good. Nafpaktos is an easy day trip from Patra (about an hour) or Delphi (1 hour), and a wonderful base for the coast of the Gulf of Corinth.