Paros

Paros is one of the most beautiful islands in Greece, and it knows it — but it is the kind of beauty that welcomes rather than impresses. Parikia, the capital, is where the whitewashed lanes climb from the harbour to the Kastro, the old Venetian castle that now shelters the island's churches and houses. The cathedral of Panagia Ekatontapiliani — the Church of a Hundred Doors — is one of the finest Byzantine churches in Greece, and its candlelit interior is a quiet marvel. At Naoussa, the fishing village on the north coast, it becomes clear why people fall in love with Paros: a picture-postcard harbour of pastel boats, white houses, and tavernas built over the water, with a Venetian castle guarding the entrance. Swims are taken at Kolymbithres, where the sea has sculpted the hard rock into smooth bowls and channels, and at the long sandy beach of Golden Beach, where the windsurfers fly across the bay. Paros is small, but it has the beauty of a postcard and the heart of a working Greek island — marble, fish, wine, and light.

Paros has been inhabited since the Bronze Age, and its great resource has always been its marble — the fine, translucent Parian marble that was prized by sculptors across the ancient world. The Winged Victory of Samothrace, a Hellenistic marble of about 200-190 BC, is worked from grey Parian marble, and the island's quarries supplied the marble for the temples of the classical age. In antiquity the island was a member of the Delian League, and its wealth from marble, trade, and wine made it prosperous. In the Middle Ages Paros was part of the Duchy of the Aegean under the Venetians, who built the castle at Naoussa and the fortifications that still stand in Parikia. The island was held by the Ottoman Empire, then the Venetians again, and it was among the first islands to join the Greek cause in 1821. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Paros declined as its marble quarries closed, and the island's population fell. From the 1960s it was discovered by travellers, and today Paros is one of the most popular of the Cyclades — a place of beautiful villages, long beaches, and a creative, welcoming spirit.

Paros has beaches for every mood. Kolymbithres, near Naoussa, is the island's most famous: a series of smooth granite basins carved by the sea, with warm water and sunbeds between the rocks. Santa Maria, just east of Naoussa, is a long sandy bay popular with families. Golden Beach (Chrissi Akti) on the east coast is the windsurfing capital, with a steady summer wind and shallow turquoise water. Pounta, facing Antiparos, is a shallow lagoon-like beach. And the little coves of the west and south coasts — Agia Irini, Logaras, and the beaches of Dryos — are quiet and beautiful. Everywhere, the water is clear and calm, and the beach tavernas serve lunch right on the sand. Paros is small enough that you can try a different beach every day.

Paros is famous across Greece for its food. The island's potatoes — small, sweet, and creamy — are celebrated with their own festival, and the local cheeses, including the soft, mild arseniko and the firm graviera, are excellent. The tavernas of Naoussa and Parikia serve the classic Cycladic table: grilled fish and octopus, the island's version of the Greek salad, and the local wine — Paros makes some of the best white wine in the Cyclades from the local grape varieties. The local specialities include souma, a potent spirit distilled from the lees of the wine, and the island's honey. For a memorable Paros dinner, sit by the water at Naoussa, order the octopus, the potato salad, and a carafe of local wine, and watch the fishing boats come home.

May, June, and September are the golden months on Paros: warm, green, and uncrowded, with the sea perfect for swimming. July and August are busy — Paros is one of the most popular islands, and Naoussa fills up — but the island's size and its many beaches mean you can always find a quiet corner. Spring is beautiful, with wildflowers and the island's famous marble gleaming in the low light. Autumn lingers warm into October. Whenever you come, give Paros a few days, and try to stay at least one night in Naoussa, when the day-trippers have gone and the harbour settles into its evening calm.

Paros is one of the best-connected islands of the Cyclades, with frequent ferries from Piraeus, Rafina and the other islands, as well as air from Athens. The ferry port is at Parikia.

The ferry port is at Parikia; a car or scooter makes exploring the island easy, and the roads are good. Do not miss Kolymbithres — arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon for the best light and fewer people. Naoussa is at its best in the evening, when the tavernas light up along the water. Take a boat trip to Antiparos for the cave and the coves, and to the islets of Despotiko and the Koufonisia if you have time. Buy a bottle of local wine and a wedge of graviera to take home, and allow yourself to slow down: Paros rewards unhurried days.