Schinoussa

Schinoussa is one of the Small Cyclades, a group of tiny islands between Naxos and Amorgos that are the last quiet places of the archipelago. The ferry comes from Naxos to a little port, from which a walk climbs to the chora, a village of white houses and stone terraces on a gentle hill. The island is small, green in spring, and golden in summer, its fields of vines and fruit trees giving it a softer character than its wilder neighbours. The beach of Psili Ammos is a beautiful bay of pale sand with a taverna in the dunes, and the coves of the coast hold water of perfect clarity, often to a single swimmer. In the evening, grilled fish is served at a table by the harbour as the light fades. Schinoussa is the Cyclades at their most gentle — a place of slow days, good food, and the quiet that the famous islands have lost.

Schinoussa has been inhabited since antiquity, when it was one of the many small islands of the Cyclades, and it is mentioned in ancient sources as a stopping place on the sea routes. In the Middle Ages it was, like its neighbours, a refuge for pirates and a base for the small communities of the Small Cyclades. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Schinoussa was a poor island of farmers and fishermen, and its population fell to a few hundred. From the 1980s, the Small Cyclades were gradually discovered by travellers seeking the quietest, most authentic islands of Greece, and Schinoussa has become a favourite of those who love its gentle character and its empty beaches. Today it is a small, welcoming community of a few hundred people, living between the vines, the sea, and the wind.

Schinoussa has a handful of beautiful beaches, all of them calm and mostly empty. Psili Ammos, on the south coast, is the most famous: a bay of pale sand with a taverna in the dunes and clear, shallow water. Livadi, near the port, is a long sandy beach with a couple of tavernas. And the coves of the east coast — Almyros, Tsigouri, and the little beaches below the hills — are quiet and lovely. The water is warm, clear, and calm, and the swimming is gentle and peaceful. Bring a mask and a picnic, and you will have the beaches of Schinoussa to yourself for hours.

Schinoussa food is the food of a small, self-sufficient island, and it is wonderfully honest. The island produces wine from its terraced vineyards, excellent honey, and cheese, and its tavernas — some of them famous among travellers to the Small Cyclades — serve the classic Greek table with a rare warmth. The local dishes include the island's goat, its fish, and the vegetables of its fields. For a real Schinoussa meal, order the fish of the day, a plate of the island's greens, and a carafe of the local wine, and eat by the harbour as the boats come in.

May, June, and September are the best months on Schinoussa: warm, quiet, and beautiful, with the beaches empty and the island at its most peaceful. July and August are livelier — the Small Cyclades have become popular — but Schinoussa keeps its calm, and its beaches stay quiet. Spring is lovely, with the island green and the vines leafing. Autumn lingers warm into October. Whenever you come, stay at least a couple of nights, and let the island's gentle pace set your own.

Schinoussa is reached by ferry from Naxos in about an hour and a half, and from Piraeus, Paros, Amorgos and the other Cyclades; there is no airport. The island is small, and is walked or explored by bicycle or scooter once you land.

Swim at Psili Ammos and the coves, walk the paths, and spend your evenings by the harbour. Bring cash and a good book. And take a day trip to the neighbouring islets if you can — the Small Cyclades are a world apart, and Schinoussa is their quiet heart.