Kea

Kea is the island Athenians reach in an hour and a half, and the reason they never stop coming is clear on arrival. It is a green, hilly island of oaks and terraces, quite unlike the bare Cyclades of the south. The ferry docks at Korissia, the little port, and a winding road climbs from there to Ioulida, the capital, a town that climbs a mountain ridge in tiers of white houses, with views over two seas. The town is a maze of lanes, arches, and marble doorways, and its ancient lion — a stone sculpture of the 6th century BC — guards a fountain at the edge of the town. The island's famous paths run through valleys of oak and oleander, and the calm bays of Gialiskari and Pisses are good for swimming. Kea is an island for walking, for swimming in quiet coves, and for long meals in the tavernas of the villages. It has the atmosphere of a private island — green, gentle, and deeply Greek.

Kea, ancient Ceos, has been inhabited since the Bronze Age, and in antiquity it was famous as the home of the poets Simonides and Bacchylides and of the physician Erasistratus. The island's four ancient cities — including the city of Ioulis, beneath today's capital — were members of the Delian League. The famous Lion of Kea, a colossal stone sculpture of the 6th century BC, survives from this period at the edge of the town. In the Middle Ages Kea was part of the Duchy of the Aegean and later passed through Ottoman rule; its castles and churches date from these centuries. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Kea was a quiet island of farmers and shepherds, and from the 1960s it became a favourite of Athenians seeking a weekend escape, drawn by its green valleys, its calm bays, and its proximity to the capital. Today Kea is one of the most loved islands of the northern Cyclades, known for its walking, its food, and its gentle, sophisticated character.

Kea has no long sandy beaches, but its calm bays are lovely for swimming. Gialiskari, on the west coast, is a beautiful bay with a beach and tavernas. Pisses, further south, is a long, sandy beach in a quiet bay. Koundouros, on the north coast, is a popular bay with a beach and restaurants. And the coves of the east coast — Otzias, Xi, and the little beaches below the cliffs — are peaceful and mostly empty. The water is clear and calm, and the swimming is gentle and pleasant. Kea is an island for quiet swims and long walks rather than beach parties — and its charms are all the more real for it.

Kea is famous in Athens for its food. The island produces excellent honey, almonds, and cheese, and its tavernas — some of them among the best in the Cyclades — serve a refined version of the Greek table. The local specialities include the island's fish, its lamb and goat, its famous honey with walnut, and the sweets made with the local almonds. For a real Kea meal, order the fish of the day, a plate of the island's greens, and finish with the honey and walnut. Kea has a serious food culture, and its restaurants in Ioulida, Korissia, and Koundouros are destinations in themselves.

May, June, and September are the best months on Kea: warm, green, and quiet, with the walking at its best and the sea warm. July and August are livelier, especially on the weekends when Athenians cross for a few days — but Kea is large enough to absorb them. Spring is glorious, with the island at its greenest and the flowers in bloom. Autumn is beautiful, with the light low and the island quiet. Whenever you come, give Kea at least a few days, and walk at least one of its trails — the island reveals itself best on foot.

Kea has no airport and is reached by sea. The main route is the ferry from Lavrio on the Attic coast, about an hour, with further services from the other Cyclades and the seasonal boats from Piraeus.

A car or scooter is useful for exploring, though Ioulida and Korissia are walkable. Walk the trails, visit the Lion and the ruins of the ancient city, and swim at Gialiskari and Pisses. Eat well — the food of Kea is one of its great attractions. Buy a jar of the island's honey or a bottle of the local wine to take home. And if you can, stay in Ioulida for the evening light, when the white tiers of the town glow above the sea.