Andros

Andros is the surprise of the Cyclades — a mountainous, green island of springs and waterfalls, quite unlike the bare white islands of the south. The ferry arrives at Gavrio, the port, and the road over the mountains leads to Chora, the handsome capital, a town of neoclassical mansions, marble fountains, and a beautiful seafront. The town is built on a promontory, with the sea on both sides, and its lanes are lined with the tower houses of the island's rich shipping families. On the itinerary are the old ruins of the castle, the modern art museum, and the village of Menites up in the mountains, where a spring gushes from the rock under a row of lion-headed fountains. Andros is an island of water — streams, springs, and the famous Sariza spring — and of stone: marble villages, stone terraces, and churches. Its beaches are quieter than the southern Cyclades, and its character is more northern, more serious, more green. It is the island for walkers, for families, and for anyone who wants the Cyclades with a difference.

Andros has been inhabited since the Bronze Age, and in antiquity it was a prosperous island that founded colonies in the northern Aegean, including the city of Stageira, the birthplace of Aristotle. The island was a member of the Delian League, and its ships were famous in the ancient world. In the Middle Ages Andros was ruled by the Venetians and the Frankish lords, and the ruins of their castles survive at Chora, Mesaria, and elsewhere. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Andros became one of the shipping capitals of Greece: the great shipowning families of the island built their fortunes in the age of sail and steam, and their mansions line the seafront at Chora. The island also has a famous literary and cultural tradition. Today Andros is a green, prosperous island, known for its springs, its beaches, and its quiet, dignified character.

The name is recorded by Stephanus of Byzantium in the sixth century AD. His Ethnica is not a book of stories but a dictionary of Greek place-names, and for this one it says: "It was called after Andros son of Eurymachus, or son of Anios son of Oinotropus; some say this Andros was son of Anios". (Ethnica, s.v. Ἄνδρος).

That is the whole of what an ancient source has to say about how the place got its name. It is a shorter answer than the guidebooks give, and it is the only one with a source behind it.

Andros is not a beach island in the way of its southern neighbours, but it has many pretty coves. Batsi, on the west coast, is the most popular: a long, sheltered bay with a sandy beach and tavernas. Korthi, on the south, has a beautiful beach in a quiet bay. And the coves of the west and north coasts — Vitali, Fellos, and the little beaches below the cliffs — are wild and uncrowded, reached by winding roads. The water is clear and often cooler than the southern Cyclades, and the beaches are natural and unpretentious. For swimming with a difference, combine it with walking — the island's springs and green valleys make it one of the most varied islands of the Cyclades.

Andros food is the honest cooking of a green, agricultural island. The island produces excellent cheese, honey, and olive oil, and its valleys grow fruit and vegetables in abundance. The tavernas of Chora, Batsi, and the villages serve the classic Greek table with a northern fullness: grilled fish and seafood, goat and lamb dishes, and the island's famous beans and greens. The local specialities include the island's sausage, its cheese pies, and the sweets made with the local honey. For a real Andros meal, order the goat, a plate of the island's greens, and the local cheese, and finish with the honey and the island's pastries.

May, June, and September are the best months on Andros: warm, green, and quiet, with the beaches calm and the springs full. July and August are the liveliest — Andros is a favourite of Greek families and of walkers — but the island is large and never feels crowded. Spring is beautiful, with the island at its greenest and the streams running. Autumn is glorious, with the light low and the colours rich. Whenever you come, give Andros a few days, and walk at least one of its beautiful trails — the island reveals itself on foot.

Andros has no airport, so the ferry is the way in, a crossing of about two hours from Rafina. The alternative is to fly to Tinos or Mykonos and make the crossing from there. Boats land at Gavrio, and the drive up to Chora is long and steep, so it is worth taking slowly.

Andros has no airport. A car is essential to explore the island's valleys and beaches, though Batsi and Chora are walkable. Walk the trails, visit the springs at Menites and Sariza, and spend an afternoon at the museum of modern art in Chora. Swim at Batsi and the coves of the west coast. Buy a bottle of Sariza spring water — the taste of Andros — and take time to sit by a marble fountain and listen to the water. Andros is the Cyclades for those who like their islands green, quiet, and full of character.