Paxos

Paxos is the smallest of the Ionian islands proper, and its scale is its magic. It can be driven from end to end in twenty minutes and still feel barely seen. The real Paxos is discovered on foot and by boat: walking the ancient stone paths between the villages of Gaios, Lakka, and Loggos through olive groves that seem to have stood since the beginning of time; or taking a boat around the coast, where cliffs drop sheer into water of a green-turquoise blue and caves open like cathedrals of glass. The ferry from Corfu lands at Gaios, whose waterfront of bougainvillea-draped houses is best walked under the afternoon heat. The harbour is protected by two tiny islands, and the town wraps around the bay in a way that invites a long stay. Out on the Erimitis headland on the west coast, the cliff edge looks down on the sea crashing far below, and the coves are clear enough to count the pebbles ten metres down. Paxos is a place where the day is organised around swimming, lunch, a siesta, and a walk before dinner — and somehow it is the most productive anyone will ever feel doing nothing at all.

Paxos has been inhabited since antiquity, and its name appears in myth as the island where Poseidon struck the sea with his trident and carved Paxos away from Corfu, to create a quiet retreat for his love Amphitrite. The island's real wealth has always been its olives: Paxos is densely covered in ancient olive trees, and for centuries the island's economy rested on producing olive oil for the Venetian Republic, which prized Paxos oil above all others. The olives are still pressed each winter, and most of the island's oil is now made into soap and cosmetics. Like the other Ionian islands, Paxos passed through Venetian, French, British, and Greek hands, and the ruins of a Venetian fortress stand on the harbour at Gaios. In the twentieth century the island declined and depopulated, but from the 1960s onward it was gradually discovered by sailors and artists, and today its tiny population swells in summer with visitors drawn by its beauty and tranquillity. There are no sandy resort beaches and no airport — only olives, stone, sea, and the soft rhythm of island life.

Paxos has few beaches, and the ones it has are small and perfect. Mongonisi, on the south coast, is the island's main beach: a pretty bay of pebbles and sand with sunbeds and a beach bar. On the east coast, the coves at Loggos and Plakes are quiet and sheltered, ideal for a lazy swim. The real glory lies on the west coast, where the Erimitis headland hides wild swimming coves reached by footpaths — cliffs, clear water, and no one around. And just off the island lies Antipaxos, whose beaches of Voutoumi and Vrika are among the most beautiful in the whole Ionian: white sand, green hills, and water so clear it looks like glass. Most visitors to Paxos take a day trip to Antipaxos by boat, swimming and snorkelling in coves that feel entirely untouched.

Paxos is a small island with a big appetite for fresh, simple food. The tavernas of Gaios, Lakka, and Loggos serve the best of the Ionian table: grilled fish and octopus caught the same morning, marides fried crisp, pastitsada and sofrito, and the island's own olive oil — some of the finest in Greece — poured generously over everything. The villages are known for their homemade preserves, their honey, and their olive-wood-baked bread. For a proper Paxos meal, order a plate of grilled fish at a table by the water, ask what the cook recommends, and finish with a slice of the island's walnut cake and a glass of local wine. And take a bottle of Paxos olive oil home — it is the island's gift.

May, June, and September are the golden months for Paxos: warm, sunny, and uncrowded, with the sea perfect for swimming. July and August are busier — the harbour at Gaios fills with yachts and the coves fill with boats — but the island is small, and even in high season you can find a quiet corner by walking or sailing. The island is at its most fragrant in late spring, when the air is thick with the scent of jasmine and wild herbs. Winter is very quiet, with most tavernas closed, but the empty stone paths and the wild seas are beautiful in their own way. Whenever you come, bring walking shoes, a swimming costume, and very little else.

Paxos has no airport, so the quickest way to arrive is by sea from Corfu. The ferry crossing takes about an hour and is frequent in summer, and water taxis make the same run from Corfu town.

The island is small enough that you can walk or cycle between Gaios, Loggos, and Lakka, though the paths are steep in places; a scooter is handy for exploring the west coast. Book a boat trip to Antipaxos at least once — it is the highlight of any visit. For the west-coast coves, follow the footpaths from the Erimitis headland and take water. The best swimming is early in the morning, before the tour boats arrive. And remember: Paxos runs on island time. Do not plan too much — let the island set the pace.