Skiathos

The ferry from Volos reaches Skiathos on a short crossing of a sea so blue it looks like liquid gemstone. The island makes its first impression in green, pine-covered hills rising steeply from a coastline of golden sand and turquoise water. A hotel in Skiathos Town, the main port, puts the old harbour within a few minutes' walk. The town is a maze of narrow streets lined with whitewashed houses, bougainvillea-covered courtyards, and small churches with blue domes. In the centre stands the house of Alexandros Papadiamantis, the great Greek writer who spent most of his life on the island and set his stories in its streets and alleys. The first day is easily given to the town: grilled octopus at a table by the water, and the sunset turning the sky orange and pink behind the harbour. The next morning, a hired motorbike opens up the island's famous beaches. Koukounaries comes first, a long crescent of golden sand backed by a pine forest declared a protected biosphere reserve, with water clear enough to show the ripples in the sand ten metres from shore. An hour's swim, then Lalaria Beach, accessible only by boat — a stunning cove of white pebbles and turquoise water, with a sea arch carved by the waves at one end. The afternoon hike through the pine forest leads to Mandraki Beach, a small, secluded cove with a single taverna serving grilled fish and cold beer. Late in the day the pine trees cast long shadows across the sand. That evening, a taverna in the hills above the town looks out over the islands of Skopelos and Alonissos in the distance — which is why the Sporades are called the green islands of Greece.

Skiathos has been inhabited since the prehistoric period, with the first settlements dating to the Neolithic era. The island was colonised by Euboeans in the 8th century BC, and it later became a member of the Delian League in the 5th century BC, contributing ships to the Athenian alliance. In 338 BC, the island fell under Macedonian control, and in 197 BC it was captured by the Romans, who used it as a naval base. During the Byzantine period, Skiathos was a relatively unimportant provincial outpost, frequently raided by pirates who used the hidden coves of the Sporades as bases. In 1207, the island was captured by the Venetian Ghisi family, who built the Bourtzi fortress on a small peninsula in the harbour of Skiathos Town — the remains of the fortress still stand today, now a peaceful pine-covered headland with a chapel and a cafe. The island fell to the Ottoman Empire in 1538, but it maintained a degree of autonomy through a system of local self-government. Skiathos played an important role in the Greek War of Independence in 1821, with the island's ships and sailors contributing to the Greek fleet. The island was formally united with Greece in 1830 under the London Protocol. During World War II, Skiathos was occupied by Italian forces in 1941 and later by German forces in 1943. The island was the site of the destruction of the Greek destroyer Vasilissa Olga, which was sunk in the harbour by German bombers in 1943. In the 20th century, Skiathos became a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors to its beautiful beaches and its charming old town. In 1960, the construction of the airport transformed the island's economy, and today tourism is the main industry. The island is perhaps best known today as the setting of the Greek novel "The Murderess" by Alexandros Papadiamantis, one of the most important works of modern Greek literature. In 2008, the film "Mamma Mia!" was filmed on the nearby island of Skopelos, but the beaches of Skiathos were also used as locations, bringing international fame to the region.

Skiathos is famous for having some of the best beaches in Greece, with over 60 beaches scattered around its 44-kilometre coastline. The most famous is Koukounaries, a 1.2-kilometre crescent of fine golden sand on the southwest coast, backed by a protected pine forest (the Koukounaries Forest, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve). The water is crystal clear and shallow for a good distance, making it perfect for swimming. The beach is well organised with sunbeds, umbrellas, and a row of tavernas and beach bars — it gets very crowded in July and August, so arrive early (before 10 am) to secure a spot. For a more secluded experience, Lalaria Beach on the north coast is a stunning cove of white pebbles and turquoise water, with a dramatic sea arch and a large white rock formation — accessible only by boat (regular excursions depart from Skiathos Town harbour). Mandraki Beach, on the south coast, is a small, secluded cove with golden sand and a single excellent taverna — accessible by a 15-minute walk through the pine forest from the road. Agia Eleni Beach, just west of Koukounaries, is a quieter alternative with the same turquoise water and pine forest backdrop, with sunbeds and a beach bar but fewer crowds. Troulos Beach, on the south coast, is a long stretch of sand with shallow water, ideal for families, with a row of tavernas and water sports. For something wilder, the beaches on the north coast — Aselinos, Megali Ammos, and Vromolimnos — are more exposed to the wind but offer a more rugged, natural setting with fewer facilities.

Skiathos cuisine is rooted in the traditions of the Sporades and mainland Thessaly, with an emphasis on fresh seafood, locally produced olive oil, and the wild greens and herbs that grow on the island's pine-covered hills. The signature dish of Skiathos is the Skiathos pie (skiathitiki pita) — a savoury pie made with fresh cheese (mizithra or feta), local herbs, and wrapped in a thin, crispy phyllo dough that is unique to the island. Another local speciality is the Skiathos salad, similar to the traditional Greek salad but with the addition of capers and the island's distinctive olive oil. The waters around Skiathos are rich with fish: barbouni (red mullet), tsipoura (sea bream), and the local gavros (anchovies) are caught daily by the island's small fishing fleet and served simply grilled with olive oil and lemon. The grilled octopus of Skiathos is famous throughout the Sporades — the octopus is caught locally, tenderised by beating it against the rocks, and grilled over charcoal until charred on the outside and tender inside. The island's hinterland produces excellent olive oil (from the Koroneiki variety grown on the terraced hillsides), honey from the thyme and pine forests, and a range of wild greens (horta) that appear in pies, salads, and as side dishes. The local cheese is dominated by the soft, creamy mizithra (used in the Skiathos pie and in sweet pastries) and the hard, salty kefalograviera. For a proper Skiathian meal, start with a plate of fava (yellow split pea puree with capers and olive oil) and a Skiathos pie, follow with a grilled barbouni or a plate of octopus stifado (octopus braised in tomato and wine), and finish with a piece of melopita (honey pie) and a glass of tsipouro. The local wine is not as famous as the wines of other Greek islands, but the red from the Limniona grape and the white from the Roditis grape are both pleasant and local.

Skiathos is at its best in late spring (May to June) and early autumn (September to October). The weather is warm (25–30 °C), the sea is swimmable, and the famous beaches are not yet — or no longer — overcrowded. The pine forests are at their greenest in spring, and the wildflowers that cover the hillsides add colour to the landscape. Summer (July to August) is the peak season: the beaches are crowded, the temperatures reach 30–35 °C, and the island buzzes with energy and nightlife. If you visit in summer, arrive at the beaches before 10 am to secure a good spot. Winter (November to February) is mild (10–16 °C) but quiet — many hotels and restaurants close, but the island has a different kind of beauty in the winter light, and the old town of Skiathos is peaceful and authentic.

Skiathos Airport "Alexandros Papadiamantis" (JSI) is the easiest way in, with scheduled flights to Athens and Thessaloniki and a heavy summer charter programme from European cities. The port is in Skiathos Town, and the main sea routes run to Volos in about one to two and a half hours on Sea Jets and Aegean Flying Dolphins, to Mantoudi on Evia in under an hour, and to Skopelos in fifteen to thirty minutes. There is also an island-hopping chain to Alonissos and a weekly link to Thessaloniki, but no direct scheduled Piraeus–Skiathos sailing.

Rent a motorbike or a small car — the island has an excellent road network and most of the best beaches require a vehicle to access. The bus system connects Skiathos Town with Koukounaries (bus runs every 30 minutes in summer), but it cannot access the more remote beaches. For Lalaria Beach, book a boat excursion from Skiathos Town harbour — the trip takes about 4 hours and stops at several beaches along the north coast. The boats depart from the old harbour (the "Bourtzi" side) and from the new harbour (the "Livadakia" side) — the boats from the new harbour are larger and more comfortable. Bring water shoes — many of the beaches on Skiathos have pebbles or small rocks in the water, and the sea urchins are common on the north coast. The best time to photograph Koukounaries is early morning (7–9 am), when the light is soft and the beach is empty. The hike from the road to Mandraki Beach takes about 15 minutes through the pine forest — the path is easy and well marked, and the reward is a beautiful, uncrowded beach with excellent grilled fish at the taverna. The Bourtzi is the best spot for sunset — the view of the sun setting behind the hills of the Pelion peninsula across the water is unforgettable. The Skiathos airport is one of the most spectacular in Greece — the planes land on a runway that is just 1.6 kilometres long, arriving over the sea and the heads of sunbathers on the beach at the end of the runway. The house of Alexandros Papadiamantis is open from 10 am to 2 pm and 5 pm to 8 pm in summer (free admission) — the guided tour is worth it for the stories about the writer's eccentric life. And one more thing: the best restaurant on Skiathos is Taverna Alexandros in the old town, a family-run taverna that has been serving traditional Skiathian food for three generations — the grilled octopus and the Skiathos pie are the best on the island.