Zakynthos

The first thing to register from the deck of a ferry coming from Kyllini is the colour of the water — not blue, not green, but something in between, a shade the Greeks call galazio. The island rises out of the Ionian Sea like a layer cake of white cliffs and green hills, with coves cut into the rock like secret rooms. Navagio Beach, the famous shipwreck cove, is the postcard image everyone knows — a rusting smugglers' boat beached on a crescent of white sand, surrounded by vertical cliffs of honey-coloured limestone. But from the top of those cliffs the postcard does not prepare you for how the water glows, almost fluorescent, as if the sea itself is lit from below. Zakynthos is not a subtle island. It is dramatic, loud, and unapologetically beautiful. But away from the famous cove, the island has quieter layers. The southern coast, around Laganas Bay, is a protected nesting ground for the Caretta caretta sea turtle, and on summer nights you can watch them haul themselves up the sand to lay their eggs. The western side is a wall of cliffs plunging into the sea, broken only by the Blue Caves, where the light refracts off the white rock and turns the water electric. The interior is a patchwork of olive groves, vineyards, and hilltop villages like Keri and Volimes, where the pace is slow and the views stretch all the way to the Peloponnese. Zakynthos Town, rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake that levelled much of the island, has a Venetian elegance in its main square and a lively harbourfront where the day's catch is grilled and served with ouzo.

Zakynthos was first mentioned by Homer in the Iliad and the Odyssey, where it was listed among the islands that participated in the Trojan War under King Odysseus. The island's name comes from Zakynthos, son of the Arcadian King Dardanos, who was said to have founded the first settlement. In antiquity, Zakynthos was an Athenian ally during the Peloponnesian War and later fell under Macedonian, Roman, and Byzantine rule. The Venetian period, from 1485 to 1797, left the deepest mark on the island — Venetian architecture, Catholic churches alongside Orthodox ones, and a cultural tradition that blended Italian and Greek influences. Zakynthos was the birthplace of Dionysios Solomos, the national poet of Greece who wrote the Hymn to Liberty (the Greek national anthem). The island also produced Nikolaos Koutouzis, a renowned painter of the Ionian School. The 1953 earthquake destroyed 80% of the island's buildings, including most of the Venetian architecture in Zakynthos Town. The reconstruction was rapid but much of the historic character was lost, though the town was rebuilt in a neo-Venetian style that captures some of the old atmosphere. Today, Zakynthos is one of the most visited Greek islands, drawing over a million tourists annually, drawn by Navagio Beach, the turtle nesting grounds, and the dramatic western coastline.

The name is recorded by Stephanus of Byzantium in the sixth century AD. His Ethnica is not a book of stories but a dictionary of Greek place-names, and for this one it says: "It is named from Zakynthos son of Dardanus". (Ethnica, s.v. Ζάκυνθος).

That is the whole of what an ancient source has to say about how the place got its name. It is a shorter answer than the guidebooks give, and it is the only one with a source behind it.

Zakynthos has the most dramatic beaches in the Ionian, dominated by the famous Navagio (Shipwreck Beach), but the island offers far more than its superstar. The south coast, around Laganas, Kalamaki, and Agios Sostis, has long sandy beaches with shallow, warm water and a lively scene of beach bars and watersports — Laganas itself is the party strip, while Kalamaki is quieter and family-friendly. The west coast is where the geology gets spectacular: Porto Limnionas and Porto Vromi are small coves carved into the white rock, with deep turquoise water and excellent snorkelling around the rocks. The north-eastern coast, around Alykes and Alykanas, offers long stretches of sandy beach with tamarisk trees providing natural shade and the water staying shallow for metres. For something wilder, head to the remote western beach of Gerakas, a protected turtle nesting site with golden sand and rolling dunes, where the surf is stronger and the crowds thinner. And for a truly unique experience, take a boat trip to the Blue Caves and swim inside the caverns where the water glows an impossible shade of blue.

Zakynthian cuisine is Ionian Greek with a strong Italian influence, a legacy of the Venetian rule. The signature dish is stifado — a slow-cooked rabbit or beef stew with pearl onions, tomato, cinnamon, and red wine, served with pasta or fries. Another island classic is skartsoupi, a fish stew made with the local catch (often scorpionfish or grouper) cooked in tomato and white wine with herbs. The island produces excellent olive oil, particularly from the local tsouka olive variety, and a range of cheeses including the soft, tangy ladotyri (literally "oil cheese") that is preserved in olive oil and often grilled as saganaki. For sweets, try mandolato, a traditional Ionian nougat made with honey, almonds, and egg whites, or pasteli, sesame and honey bars. The local wine is Verdea, a white wine made from a blend of local grape varieties that has been produced on the island since the Venetian era — it is crisp, aromatic, and pairs perfectly with seafood. For a drink, try the local ouzo or tsipouro, served with meze in the harbourfront tavernas of Zakynthos Town.

Zakynthos is best visited in late spring (May to June) or early autumn (September to October). The weather is warm (25–30 °C), the sea is calm, and the island is less crowded. July and August are peak season — temperatures often reach 35 °C, Laganas is packed with young party crowds, and Navagio Beach can have queues of boats waiting to let passengers swim. For turtle spotting, the nesting season runs from June to October, with hatching peaking in August and September. The island is quieter and greener in spring (April to May), when the wildflowers are in bloom and the hills are covered in green.

Zakynthos International Airport "Dionysios Solomos" (ZTH), run by Fraport Greece, sits a few kilometres from Zakynthos Town and its port, with scheduled flights from Athens year round and a large summer charter programme. Levante Ferries runs the mainland route from Kyllini on the Peloponnese, about 1 hour 15 minutes, several times a day all year; the drive from Athens crosses the Rio–Antirrio bridge and takes a little over three hours. In summer, Ioniansea Ferries also runs a direct service from Agios Nikolaos in the north of the island to Pessada on Kefalonia, around 1 hour 45 minutes.

Navagio Beach is only accessible by boat — tours depart from Porto Vromi, Agios Nikolaos, and Zakynthos Town. The famous clifftop viewpoint above the beach is accessible by road, but arrive early (before 9 am) to avoid the crowds and the harsh midday sun for photos. If you visit in summer, book boat tours a day in advance, as they sell out. Laganas Bay is a National Marine Park — follow the rules: no lights or flash photography on the beach at night (disturbs nesting turtles), no motorised water sports in the protected zone, and keep your distance from any turtles you see. For the best turtle spotting, take a responsible boat tour with a local guide rather than renting your own boat. The Blue Caves are best visited in the morning when the sun angle creates the strongest blue reflection. The island has good bus connections between the main towns and beaches, but hiring a scooter or car gives you access to the quieter coves and hill villages. And the one thing every local will tell you: do not leave Zakynthos without swimming in the Blue Caves — the water there is something you will remember for the rest of your life.